In a strong-shouldered red military jacket, actress Charlotte Gainsbourg posed for cameras ahead of Saint Laurent’s warehouse-style show in front of the Eiffel Tower. An eerie feeling pervaded the collection of clothes that recalled the 1980s and were done in black or doused in glitter. The dim beam light in the show decor evoked a hybrid of a disco and a prison courtyard. A smoke machine chugged out wisps of mist. Some guests bumped into each trying to find their seats, and the first of the black styles were so faintly lit the detail of the clothes was lost.
The effect was intentional. Anthony Vaccarello has consistently created dark atmospherics in his presentations since becoming Saint Laurent designer in 2016. Huge fringed boots, black mini dresses and voluminous sleeves in black gave way to loose metallic disco dresses with strong shoulders and plunging necklines. They shimmered in the dappled light. There was a brooding sensuality in many of the details, such as shiny black leather gloves or a black fur band wrapping the bust that was set against naked shoulders.
The piece de resistance? A black column dress that evoked a tuxedo and had a front section artfully cut out. Instead of a white shirt, the opening revealed a bare chest.
Jacquemus kicks off Paris Fashion Week
French fashionistas flocked to the front row beneath the lofty ceilings of the Petit Palais – from model Farida Khelfa to legendary couturiere Christian Lacroix – in a testament to the growing star power of designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose collection now opens the Paris Fashion Week calendar. Capitalizing on the current buzz, the 28-year-old this month announced he’s expanding into menswear.
His fall-winter display went on a journey to Morocco, a country that Jacquemus has said he often retreats to after Fashion Week. Exaggerated proportions of fabric defined the exotic silhouettes- in split skirts, gargantuan wrap-hats, pleated culottes or coats with a round. “This winter, I got lost in the souks again,” Jacquemus quipped.
A silken kaftan in light French beige flowed with an Eastern feel thanks to loose proportions – and trompe l’oeil pants that billowed by like a skirt. The well-executed 58-piece collection featured pigment colors and had several standout moments. The front of one frayed skirt in dark vanilla was imagined as a hoop of fabric. And the stilettos, with heels made of giant colored beads, had many in the audience whipping out their cameras.-AP